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"In
Guatemala, Organic Farms Sprout on Civil War Turf"
Wall Street Journal - October 9, 1998
by William Fulbright Foote
LAS CONCHAS,
Alta Verapaz, Guatemala--During the darkest years of this country's
35-year civil war, local farmers here abandoned their land. As the
farms became jungle again and pesticides leached away, wild spices
thrived. At the same time, a new market in North America and Western
Europe was creating demand for organic produce.
Guatemala's
civil war, ironically, was environmentally correct--it helped reclaim
the country's native plants. But these plants are not just an environmentalist's
dream; they have become a meaningful source of income for some Guatemalan
peasants who are capitalizing on the growth in the organic products
market. These farmers have learned of the comparative advantages
of selling organic premium-priced goods, making them some of the
country's first enviro-capitalists.
Thomas
Fricke, the president of ForesTrade, a Vermont-based trading company
specializing in organic spices, coffee and essential oils from around
the world has connected with the Guatemalan farmers. Founded in
1995, ForesTrade began by importing organic cinnamon, pepper, cloves,
nutmeg, mace, and ginger from Indonesia and Sri Lanka, buying exclusively
from small-scale farmers. Mr. Fricke knew the trend: organic produce
markets in the U.S. and Europe had been growing at a rate of over
20% annually since 1990, with an estimated $3.3 billion in U.S.
sales alone in 1996. Meanwhile, the ethnic cuisine craze was prompting
more Americans to experiment with spices that were once considered
exotic. Responding to increasing demand from customers, ForesTrade
went searching for supply and found some of Latin America's healthiest
soil in Guatemala.
"We received
organic certification for cardamom (a staple spice for Indian food)
in several months," Mr. Fricke says. "This process can take 3 years
in more chemically-laden countries."
Not long
ago, U.S. consumers and lucrative organic produce markets seemed
far beyond the reach of farmers here, 95% of whom speak only Kekchi,
a Maya tongue. Chronic market inefficiencies, typical in the Latin
American countryside, together with the language barrier, had impoverished
rural producers, which arguably gave impetus to the longest civil
war in Latin American history. When peace finally came in 1996,
local farmers benefited from an ironic twist of fate: U.S. and European
buyers were paying premiums for certified "organic" labels that
guarantee the absence of synthetic pesticides, fungicides and herbicides
in agricultural production. Their cardamom plants, which thrive
under tall rainforest canopies, fetch even higher prices.
This
is a typical tropical economy. Agriculture contributes 24% of gross
domestic product (estimated at $16 billion last year) and accounts
for 75% of exports. But selling eco-sensitive produce into the global
marketplace offers Guatemala the chance to compete on something
besides price--which it would ordinarily do in the commodity market.
In this case, Guatemala has a comparative advantage in organic coffee,
cacao, spices and natural dyes and can thus command premium prices.
Though the market today is small, its development in rural areas
might have an important significance for farmers who otherwise would
have to compete in commodities.
For products
like spices and coffee, organic farming requires a shift away from
the large plantations carved out of the rain forest to the smaller
farms where cardamom plants, for instance, are grown. In Las Conchas,
this shift has proved a boon to peasant farmers. As Herminio Gonzalez,
a former guerrilla turned organic spice farmer explains, "Nobody
around here can afford to manage our plants and control pests with
expensive chemicals or tractors. Today, with this new market, we
can do well with machetes and sweat equity."
Because
Mr. Fricke needs a supply of organic produce, he pays premium prices
and provides technical support to heighten farmer productivity.
To reach their remote suppliers, ForesTrade establishes joint ventures
with existing businesses, individual entrepreneurs, community associations,
and non-governmental organizations. Through this network, the company
forms contractual linkages with small-scale producers. It also hires
U.S. "organic" certification agencies (with representatives in Central
America) to inspect the farms and monitor product as it moves from
the field to intermediary buyers to exporters.
While
numerous other U.S. companies are importing organic produce from
small-scale farmers throughout Central America--the Organic Commodities
Project (cacao), Equal Exchange (coffee), Stonyfield Farms (mangos)--the
case of Guatemala merits special attention. Full implementation
of the peace accords, signed by the government and the rebel alliance
on December 29, 1996, is the greatest challenge facing Guatemala
today. People in places like Las Conchas are focused on the economic
underpinnings of peace.
At the
end of this year, the support that many ex-guerrillas received over
the last three years from the United Nations High Commission for
Refugees to resettle and rehabilitate their farms is ending. U.S.
official assistance to Guatemala, totaling about $965 million since
1986, is also drying up. Yet it is not more aid that the veterans
of Guatemala's civil war need, but access to markets, especially
ones that promote grassroots development.
The story
in Las Conchas is typical of the remote jungle territories in northern
Guatemala: Indian peasants--many of whom are former rebels--returning
home after being internally-displaced during the civil war; new
thatch huts popping up along lonely dirt roads; the gray haze from
forest fires that ripped across Guatemala's tropical forests this
summer. What is exceptional is that unlike most other places in
the country, the humid forests here remain largely intact thanks
to a local campaign against an ingrained culture of slash-and-burn
agriculture. What's more surprising is that the jungle still stands,
and the farmers are living better, thanks to what most former guerrillas
would consider a dirty word: the American consumer.
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