|
|

"Berry
Sales to U.S. Offer Security to Amazon Farmers"
New
York Times - August
4, 2004
by Todd Benson
GARAPÉ-MIRI,
Brazil - For more than 30 years, Raimundo Julião da Costa
has eked out a living by selling a dazzling array of wild tropical
fruits that grow naturally on his land in the lush floodplains of
the Amazon rainforest.
His biggest seller has always been açaí (pronounced
ah-sigh-EE) - a dark purple berry rich in nutrients that sprouts
atop the millions of palm trees lining the riverbanks in the Brazilian
jungle. But like thousands of other poor farmers, until recently
Mr. da Costa found himself at the mercy of middlemen who have had
a strong hold on the local fruit market for generations.
That started to change two years ago, when a few environmentally
conscious surfers from a small California company called Sambazon
offered to buy Mr. da Costa's açaí harvest at a 25
percent premium over the market price. The only catch - he had to
designate a piece of his land as an ecological reserve and carefully
manage the rest of his terrain to protect the biodiversity of the
rainforest.
"It's worth the extra effort," said Mr. da Costa, 74,
who is better known by his nickname, Seu Ediquínio. "I
used to sell my fruit on the edge of the river to the middlemen,
but they always pay the lowest price possible," he said. "Now
I have a lot more security because I know what price I'm going to
get ahead of time."
Mr. da Costa's American buyers may be relative newcomers, but they
are already helping change the face of the tropical fruit trade
in this part of the Brazilian Amazon. Because Sambazon offers guaranteed
contracts, hundreds of peasant families are able, for the first
time, to lock in a price for the bulk of their crop before the harvest.
And as their sales become more lucrative, people have an incentive
to preserve their habitat instead of abandoning it in search of
work in nearby cities like Belém, where many former river
dwellers live in poverty in crime-ridden shantytowns.
"The idea is to show the locals that it can pay off to become
stewards of the forest," said Ryan Black, chief executive and
a founder of Sambazon in San Clemente, Calif.
While those may sound like the words of a seasoned environmental
advocate, it was Mr. Black's nose for business that drew him into
the conservationist movement. He and a friend, Ed Nichols, came
up with the idea for importing tropical fruit after tasting açaí
during a surfing trip to northeastern Brazil in 1999. A few months
later, they founded Sambazon, short for Saving and Managing the
Brazilian Amazon.
Rich in antioxidants and amino acids, açaí is thought
to be one of the most nutritional fruits of the Amazon basin. So
Mr. Black and Mr. Nichols first went after the health-conscious,
processing the fruit into packs of frozen pulp mixed with guaraná,
another berry from the Amazon that contains natural stimulants.
Then they started distributing it to juice bars and fitness clubs
throughout Southern California, where açaí smoothies
soon began supplanting wheatgrass protein shakes as the drink of
choice among athletes and body builders.
Sambazon açaí is now carried by thousands of juice
bars and grocery stores across the country, including such retail
chains as the Whole Foods Market, Wild Oats and Trader Joe's. Chefs
are also beginning to experiment with the fruit, whose taste has
been likened to blueberry with a hint of chocolate. The Blue Door
restaurant at the Delano Hotel in Miami Beach serves it with dinner
entrees like veal tenderloin.
In most Brazilian cities, açaí is also a recent phenomenon,
even though it has been a staple for indigenous communities in the
Amazon for centuries. Now, in most parts of the country açaí
is typically served as an ice-cold slush in a bowl, topped with
granola and sliced bananas.
"When I came to Brazil in 1996, you could only find açaí
in half a dozen places," said Travis Baumgardner, a 29-year-old
Texan who runs Sambazon's Brazilian subsidiary in Rio de Janeiro
and regularly visits the Amazon to monitor the harvest. "Now
you can get it at over 5,000 juice bars in Rio alone. It has an
air of nutrition and coolness that people love."
The rising demand for açaí is good news for both Sambazon,
which has been in business four years and hopes to turn its first
profit this year, and the families along the Amazon who depend on
the palm berry for their livelihood. Sambazon buys açaí
from more than 750 families organized into four fruit cooperatives
in the Várzea Flooded Forest, an unusual microclimate in
Pará state where the Amazon river rises over 30 feet every
year and floods the surrounding jungle. As word travels that a foreign
company is paying a hefty premium for açaí, hundreds
more families are rushing to join the co-ops.
Still, not everyone is thrilled with the arrival of Sambazon. Mr.
Baumgardner says he has received phone calls from a few local fruit
processors who complain that the company is artificially forcing
up açaí prices. And middlemen, who often work for
fruit merchants in nearby cities, are starting to put pressure on
açaí pickers to stop selling their crops to Sambazon.
Despite the complaints, Sambazon represents only a sliver of the
market, around 2 percent of the region's crop.
"There's no doubt that the middlemen aren't pleased,"
said Aluízio Solyno of the Federation of Social and Educational
Organs, a local nongovernmental organization that helps the region's
fruit gatherers set up co-ops.
"But there's also a concern that if acaí prices go up
as a result of Sambazon paying a premium, that could hurt local
consumers here in the region that eat acaí as a daily staple,"
he added. "I mean, the people who pick the fruit are benefiting,
but a poor person who lives on the outskirts of Belém and
eats acaí every day isn't."
One way middlemen try to woo locals away from importers like Sambazon
is by offering cash up front to finance their harvest, an exceedingly
rare financial luxury for small farmers in developing nations. But
fortunately for Sambazon, the farmers here have another source of
financing - EcoLogic Finance. A microcredit fund based in Cambridge,
Mass., EcoLogic provides low-interest loans of $25,000 to $500,000
in environmentally sensitive rural areas in Latin America.
Founded in 1999 by William Fulbright Foote, a grandson of the late
Senator J. William Fulbright, Democrat of Arkansas, EcoLogic manages
$8.5 million in loan capital, $5.58 million of which has been disbursed
or committed to 36 borrowers in nine Latin American countries. While
that may look small on Wall Street, where Mr. Foote once worked,
it is big money in the "green" lending universe, where
the pool of potential borrowers is enormous and the available financing
minuscule.
"There's plenty of entrepreneurial energy in communities like
these," Mr. Foote said. "What we're trying to do is harness
that energy with credit. It's not about philanthropy. It's about
providing a dignified exchange of services."
EcoLogic's repayment rate is 98 percent, in large part because it
follows a strict lending model that requires borrowers to have an
existing sales relationship with an international buyer like Sambazon.
EcoLogic, whose backers include church groups and nonprofit organizations,
as well as multinational corporations like the Starbucks Coffee
Company, delivers the money against signed contracts with the importers.
Once the harvest is complete and shipped abroad, the importer pays
the principal and interest due on the loan.
"It's commercial activity, yet the financing isn't really available
from commercial sources," said Brian O'Neill, chairman of Latin
America at J. P. Morgan Chase & Company, which provides financing
for EcoLogic through the J. P. Morgan Chase Foundation. "EcoLogic
fills that gap, that void, very nicely."
EcoLogic has been supporting the açaí co-ops in the
Amazon since November 2003, when it lent Sambazon $175,000 for last
season's harvest. This year EcoLogic expects to disburse $400,000
to the company - $300,000 on Aug. 1, just in time for the harvest,
and the remainder in September, when the picking season kicks into
high gear. Sambazon gets additional financial backing from environmental
groups like the Nature Conservancy.
"This is financial no man's land," Mr. Foote said as he
visited with açaí farmers at the Mutirão Association,
a co-op on the Moju River that sells fruit to Sambazon. "So
if you don't have the money on time, it will undermine your credibility,
and these folks will think you're just like any other middleman."
About
Us | Our Borrowers | Newsletters
| In the Press | Photo
Gallery | Get Involved
Copyright © Ecologic Finance Inc. 2004
|
|